One of the opportunities
I like to exploit on a road trip is the ability to exchange the busy expressway
for the benefits of the road less traveled. Jan and I went to
the Nova Scotia mainland, principally to see Doris, my dear old Mum, and to
hang out with good pals Garth and Carole at Amherst Shore.
My claim in this context is simple: back roads offer
infinite prospects for discovery and edification. Nova Scotia collector roads
256 and 246 in Cumberland County feature four communities named for Annan, the town
Scots emigrants forsook in the early 1800s for a life in New Scotland. The
motorist driving west on 256 first encounters Central New Annan. One might
imagine that East New Annan is situated east of Central New Annan but, no, it lies
to the south. West New Annan is indeed west, but not as far west as the final
namesake community, Annandale.
At Central New Annan my eye was caught by a commemorative cairn
I initially thought might be a war memorial, something I seldom pass by without
taking a look. But no, the monument, right by the 1866 Wilson School,
commemorates not local boys obliterated in the battlefields of Flanders and
Picardy, but a young woman who grew to worldwide fame on the basis of her astonishing
height.
Born in 1846 at Middlebrook, Colchester County, Anna Swan moved
with her family to Central New Annan at age three. Anna’s beleaguered mother
managed to survive her daughter’s birth despite the fact that the newborn entered
the world at sixteen pounds. On her fifteenth birthday young Anna was already
seven feet tall, not nearly the full height she would ultimately reach.
In a time before it became socially unacceptable to gawk at
people of unusual configuration, Anna Swan became a celebrity: the world’s
tallest woman, a circus star of the first magnitude. At seven feet, eleven
inches, Anna soared a full four inches over the tallest man ever to play NBA
basketball. She weighed 330 pounds and walked about on feet more than fourteen
inches long. One of the striking surviving images of Anna in her circus career is
one in which she holds a diminutive young man in the palm of her right hand.
In her early 20s she had journeyed to Halifax to see a
traveling circus where two things of consequence occurred: she was hired on the
spot by the circus promoter and, what’s more, met her future husband. The spouse-to-be
was Martin Van Buren Bates who at 7’ 7 1/2” was three inches and change shorter
than the future Mrs. Bates. Named for the eighth U.S president, Martin was
dubbed the Kentucky Giant. He was a soldier hero of the Confederacy who despite
being two feet taller than every other Confederate soldier in action beside him
managed to survive the war without being picked off by a Union sharpshooter.
In a celebrity wedding for the ages, Martin married the
woman of his dreams at St. Martin-in-the-Fields, London, in June 1871. The
bride was 26, the groom 34. Many thousands of Londoners sought to attend the
colossal event but there simply wasn’t room to accommodate them all. Among
those most impressed by the remarkable nuptials was Queen Victoria herself: she
gave each of the newlyweds a diamond-studded gold watch of extra-large
dimension.
Their circus freak-show days behind them, the happy couple opted
for a quiet farm life at Seville, Ohio. There the husband built a monumental
house for himself and his bride. The ceilings were fourteen feet high; the
eight-foot doors barely high enough to allow Anna to pass through without
stooping. Anna gave birth twice, each event ending in grief. An eighteen-pound
daughter died at birth in 1872. In January 1879 Anna gave birth to a son. At 23
pounds, nine ounces, the boy remains the biggest newborn in history. Sadly, the
infant giant lived only eleven hours.
Anna died suddenly and without warning in her sleep August
5, 1888, just one day before her 42nd birthday. To honour his
remarkable wife Martin Bates commissioned a grave marker featuring a statue in Anna’s
likeness. The grave, shared with her short-lived children, is in Mound Hill
Cemetery, Seville.
Nine years after Anna’s passing, in 1897, Martin married
again. This time he chose a bride of normal stature. Despite the hazards
accruing to someone of extraordinary height, Martin lived into his 82nd
year. Meanwhile, Anna occupies a final resting place far removed from the Nova
Scotia hamlet that nurtured her tender years. I feel gratitude to the good folks along Nova
Scotia Highway 256 who have seen to it that young Anna Swan of Central New
Annan is not entirely forgotten.
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